Tilta Focus Handle Power Grip Review

The Tilta Side Focus Handle gives you battery power with USB and DC output, control over your Nucleus Nano follow focus, and a holder for a Samsung external SSD. That’s a big upgrade for $229.  And it’s compatible with every camera cage out there.   But is it made to last, and is it the right tool for the job?

I’d been waiting a long time for a handle that was also a secret power solution.  First, it was for my Sony a7s2.  Those batteries were cheap, but an hour is hardly sufficient.  My Sony a73 was a nice step up in terms of internal battery power, but you also have accessories like the Tilta Nucleus Nano and external monitors to consider.  You have to get power to them somehow.  When I started looking for convenient power options-- specifically a rig handle with it's own secret battery, there was nothing on the market. Two years later, the first power bank handles started to appear, but I’ll admit I was put off by the clunkiness and size of them.

My Z Cam E2 opened up a new possibility.  I was aware of NP-F batteries that also had USB output, but of course you need a bracket to hold it… and size-wise this started to feel like a lot for just powering a Nano. But now now the NPF battery could power the camera and the Nano simultaneously, and it’s a decent solution for that camera in a pinch.  But only a pinch because unfortunately the USB output on these batteries turns off when the Nano stops drawing power for 60 secon which is... let's say, awkward. The Batteries also  underscored a bigger problem.  With the Nucleus Nano on a heavier setup, you really don’t want to have one hand dedicated to pulling focus.  It’s too easy to introduce camera shake.  Once I had the Nano attached, I really wanted a larger monitor for focus pulling, and the combination ended up being fairly fairly beefy.

So the Tilta handle system hit the market, I was excited.  The NPF 970 model of the handle offers control of the Nano, and a DC output for powering my monitor as well.  The improved placement of the focus wheel and the weight-bearing strap makes it possible to pull focus without putting a tremor into the system.

Tilta offers several versions of the handle, with models that accept both NP-F and LP batteries at a couple of sizes.  They have versions with and without the Nano flywheel, and three options for attaching it to your camera cage.  And while that seems like a lot of choice, the absence of other options was the first thing that stood out for me.  My handle is designed specifically with the Z Cam in mind, but Z Cam’s don’t play well with the Samsung SSDs.  So I would have preferred a more generic SSD holder or none at all.

All versions of the handle are for the left hand only.

Overall, the handle is well-made.  The sides, including the SSD bracket, are metal, and the darker material a lightweight plastic.  The strap is a nice leather deal. The bigger model is… well, big.  Your fingers barely reach the opposite side of the grip. The outputs are on the bottom, which is an… okay choice.  I originally thought it would keep the cords out of the way, but they have to rise up to reach their destination, so I’m not sure it helps much.  It does mean that you’ll want to buy cords with right angle plugs to keep them from sticking out so far.  Which brings me to another sticky point.
The USB is 8 volts, which is much more powerful than your typical USB (awesome).  This is especially true for the Nucleus Nano, which performs better at higher voltage.  The DC is 12 volts, which I think may be the max the NPF batteries can output. So the voltage is great.  But 12 volt plugs are much less common than other voltages, and this means you’ll probably need an adapter to make it compatible with whatever you’re powering.  The USB out is a micro USB, so most likely you’ll need a micro to micro cable, too.  One actually comes with your Nano, if you haven’t lost it already.  These cables aren’t expensive, but it would have been nice if Tilta had included them with the handle. 
Speaking of missing things, the handle doesn't come with a battery... which is somewhat understandable and yet still somewhat cheap.  NPF batteries in this size cost about $30 (less in bulk) and for a handle that's all about power, you'd think Tilta could have thrown one in.

The flywheel on the handle, however, is pretty awesome.  With the strap to hold the weight of the camera, the location is perfect for manipulating the wheel.  And it has a little resistance to it, so it’s smooth and easy to control with no bounce back when you reach your mark.  The NPF 970 version of the handle, mine, has an auto calibrate button that works just like the original Nano controller.  One press, and it automatically finds the endpoints of your focus ring if your lens has a hard stop.  Unlike the original controller, you can’t manually calibrate the wheel, or set your endpoints by hand.  And there’s no A-B function either, at least not that I’ve found.  There’s no manual for any of these handles, and that’s a glaring problem, especially since the smaller model only calibrates by hand.  One thing to note: the handle isn’t wireless.  But that’s not really an issue, because you need a wire to power the motor anyway.

The 8 volt output is an improvement over the 2 volts of many small USB batteries.  You can control larger, stiffer lenses with it.

I love that I can power my Atamos Ninja 7 from the handle.  When the batteries are on the back of the monitor, it makes everything top heavy and more difficult to shoot handheld.  The NPF 970 battery will power the Atamos for about 50 minutes.  So, you’ll burn through a few batteries on a full-day shoot, but that would have been the case without the handle.  I decided on the larger, 970 model for just this reason.  While the 570 version of the handle is half the price and smaller, I knew that it would only power my monitor for about 20 minutes.  And it's missing the hand strap, which is extremely helpful.

Another note:  NP-F batteries from different manufacturers can be slightly different sizes.  The slightly larger ones are a bit of a pain to get in and out of the handle. While this is generally true for every piece of equipment they’re connected to, the lack of places to grip the battery make it especially difficult on the Tilta handle.  This isn’t Tilta’s fault, but you do need to be careful that you don’t damage the electrical connections.

Perhaps my biggest gripe—and it’s not a huge deal—is the gap between the handle and the camera.  This space here, while a relief for beefier fingers, is really bigger than it needs to be. Without an SSD, it feels ridiculously big.  Most of the time, you want to keep your rig as compact as possible, so these feels like a misstep.  I bought the smallest, flattest Rosette attachment I could find to help minimize the awkwardness, but it's still almost twice the width I'd like.

Unlike the Nucleus Nano and the Mini Matte Box, the Tilta handle doesn’t come in a neat kit with all the attachments.  That makes it feel like a bit of an off-hand effort.  You still need to supply the cables with right angle plugs, the battery, and possibly the Rosette attachment for your rig, and these little things add up to another sixty or seventy bucks.  So your handle is now closer $300.

So, what does that mean in the final analysis?  If you have a Tilta Nucleus system, I’d say it's a worthwhile investment. The flywheel handle is awesome.  While it doesn't offer all of the capabilities of the original Nano flywheel, it's far easier to use on a handheld rig.  Keep your wheel for a tripod or a dedicated puller. I wish Tilta would make the smaller, NPF 570 version with the hand strap, because that makes a big difference in terms of ease and convenience. I also wish they offered the 970 model without the SSD holder.  It would make the whole unit smaller.  If you just want the power capabilities, I might wait a few months and see what other products enter the market.  The USB and DC options are great, but the little inconveniences of the handle make it an imperfect solution.  And let’s face it:  if all the handle does is outputs for a battery you provide, 120 bucks for the smaller version and $200 for the bigger is way overpriced.  The Tilta handle only makes financial sense if you need the Nucleus control, too.

I hope everyone is staying safe out there in these trying times.  Be well.

MicroFogger2 - The Fog Machine That Fits in Your Hand

Today I’m reviewing a quirky little tool that’s found its way into my bag.  As I’ve fine-tuned my work as a cinematographer, I’ve increasingly explored the importance of texture in an image.  Most of the time I’m just trying to get the basics of the shot.  You want it in focus, and well exposed without blown highlights or depthless blacks.  You’re making sure the white balance is correct, and if you have the bandwidth, maybe you’re playing with that color on set, adding gels and changing color temperatures to bring more visual interest to the scene.  

And maybe, just maybe, you’ve experimented with haze or fog to give dimensionality to your background. But the problem with fog machines are they’re big and cumbersome, slow to operate and fog is challenging to control.  Machines typically typically use 400 watts of power or more, so you need a wall socket to plug in the unit.  You can buy it in a can, but that’s expensive, and if you use too much surfaces become wet and glossy.  And everything starts to feel a bit ick.

And then I discovered the MicroFogger 2 by Workshopscience.com.  It’s tiny.  At 5 inches, by one and a half, by two, it’s the smallest fogger I’ve seen anywhere.  And it’s battery powered.  It’s also fairly well made.  

You never really want to drop any piece of electronic equipment, but it’s nice when it feels like it won’t shatter if tipped over.  

The Microfogger is easy to operate.  It heats up quicker that a traditional fogger, and is ready to produce smoke roughly 30 seconds after you switch it on.  It produces a surprising amount of fog for its size; the amount is much less than a full sized fogger, but similar to the haze in a can products.  It’s not silent, but it’s quiet compared to full sized units.  You can hold it in your hand; the tip gets warm but won’t burn you, and casing doesn’t heat up at all. And the fogger 2 comes with a remote so you can put it somewhere on set and fire it up from a distance.  

Operation is simple yet mysterious.  It’s really important that you read the manual to understand how to use it safely and not destroy the unit.  They also have a useful video on their website. The Power button switches it on and off, but unlike most technology, you press it five times quickly.  That’s because the Power button also starts the smoke, so a long press will produce smoke.  There are two smaller buttons for adjusting the volume and flow of smoke through a rather confusing system.  

I’m not sure how volume and flow are two DIFFERENT things here, but the remote helps simplify things to three power settings that range from an unattended cigarette to a gushing pipe. The two LED lights change color, flash, and can tell you a whopping 14 different things about the unit, from battery level to heating coil problems… which just brings me back to the importance of reading the manual and maybe saving a copy of it on your phone.

The big question I know everyone has at this point is price… and it’s not inexpensive.

  

The MicroFogger 2 comes in at about $150 bucks.  If you’re used to the cheap, forty dollar foggers that are made for Halloween effects, the amount seems crazy. I’ll admit I anguished over this purchase. But when I compared it to the haze in a can products that can cost anywhere from 12 to $30 bucks a pop, it’s suddenly seemed like a reasonable investment. Especially considering it’s a quarter of the size, and you can refill it for about fifty cents a charge. Then I came across the Tiny S, a battery powered fog machine… for $800, and I thought maybe I should bite the bullet on the MicroFogger 2. You’ve also got professional systems like the Antari for roughly a grand.  These will produce volumes of smoke that you can use both indoors and outside to create a foggy forest, but that’s really something you’d want to rent, not buy.

The unit does have a couple of downsides beyond the cost.  Due to the small size, you can only run the fogger in 10 second increments. It pauses automatically after that. The heating coil is burning off the fog juice, so it needs time to recoat the coil.  After 10 more seconds, you can fire it up again.  At this size, it’s not going to fill a ballroom with haze, or create a giant billow of smoke for your talent’s entrance.  But it will create a nice haze in a small room, and it’s great for interesting product shots.

According to the manufacturer, you need to put some care into the unit when it’s not in use.  First, you need to empty out the fogger if you’re not going to use it for a couple of weeks—no leaving the juice inside until the next shoot—and you should charge it every three weeks or so to protect the battery.  

The makers also recommend using their fog juice because the liquid is thicker, and I’ve yet to experiment with other brands that are cheaper or more convenient to buy.  

And the unit came with an extra heating coil… so I guess I can expect that to wear out after some amount of use.  We’ll see.

The bottom line? Well, the size is incredibly attractive.  If you shoot products, music videos, or narrative films, the convenience factor may make it a great creative tool. Even if haze isn’t something you normally use, you can throw it into your bag for the odd occasions when it IS useful (just don’t forget to charge it regularly).  It’s not cheap, but it’s comparatively a great deal, especially if you value a battery powered system.  So while I’ve never felt a huge need for fog or haze in my shoots, I did decide to take the plunge and shell out a significant amount of cash for this unit.  I’m hoping it makes itself useful.

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